Solar on the Go Kart

Many years ago, I was shopping at a large box store and saw a solar panel kit. I think that it was intended for camping. The price was reasonable and my “impulse to buy neuronal circuits” took over. I do not know why, but I bought the kit.

My intentions were good: a neat back up source of power for emergency lighting, charging cell phones, radios and other battery powered devices. Oh, what about musical instruments?

Well, like a lot of my impulses, the kit sat. I used the metal rack for another project, but the solar panels just sat. I even tried to sell them once at a garage sale, but to no avail.

One day I finally said, “Give them away or build something.” I went into the workshop and sketched this design. A Solar on the Go Kart is what I called it. (I like Kart better than Cart). A mobile, self contained, solar power-energy generating, storage kart.

I already had a hand kart that was given to me. So really, I had everything that I needed except the battery – at least I thought so.

Below is the kit, which consists of 3 solar panels, a battery regulator, a two-plug power inverter (12 V DC to 120 V AC), and miscellaneous connecting wires.

Based upon my sketch, I needed to come up with a system of 3 panel frames that could fold on top of each other, so as to look like one panel when folded. A bit of a challenge for me with limited tools for metal work.

I did not want to spend big bucks, so my solution was to use punched angle iron. It was pretty inexpensive, easy to cut and to bend.

Here are the 3 panel frames bolted together and hinged. The concept worked. It was a little flimsy, but seemed okay. This is where things started to go wrong.

Bolting it together was just to test the concept. For strength, it needed to be welded. I do not have a welder, nor could I weld if I did have one. A great skill to have however!

So I called a few shops, and found one that was willing. When I showed him my project he said there are problems. First, the metal is too thin. If welded, some of the metal will burn through – meaning it will be destroyed. Second, the frame metal and hinges are plated, this has to be removed prior to welding. Third, the frame metal and hinges are two different types of metal and will heat up at different temperatures, making a good weld difficult.

Bottom line, as the welder said, the materials that I chose for this project were wrong. Okay, I get that now – but who knew it was that complicated. Welding is not just connecting things together with heat – it’s a superior skill and a materials science.

Okay, he did the job for me and let me know up front that it would be junk. The metal burned and the frame warped as you can see.

The welds were strong but the frame was so flimsy, that I had to cut off one of the frames. Alright, just keep going.

I made the battery shelf out of wood. I placed a piece of metal on the bottom of the shelf, thinking about battery acid spillage. Then I attached the regulator, inverter, and secured the shelf to the kart.

Here is what it looked like before I cut off the frame on the left. It actually looks good, but don’t be fooled by the picture.

I attached 2 of the panels into the frames – they worked okay when opened and closed.

Next day I bought a deep-cycle marine battery. When I got it home, I realized that it was not sealed. Meaning, that if you tilt the kart back, which I have to do to maximize the sun’s exposure, the acid will leak out. Geez, who designed this project anyway?

I took the battery back the next day. I have since ordered a sealed battery, which costs twice as much. I am waiting on that order to arrive.

Bottom line – I will redo the frame with heavier and similar metals. I want this project to work because I plan to power a small speaker, an iPad running Garageband and a Midi keyboard outdoors. There will be another post on this rework for sure.

Musical compositions powered by the sun – that’s my dream. Well, one of them!

eBike Build

I’ve had a mountain bike for quite some time and have not ridden it in years. It just sits in the garage collecting dust.

eBikes (electric bikes) have become so popular, I thought that I might buy one. My thought was that the battery powered option would get me back on the road. Yes, I would pedal the bike sometimes.

Then I saw the prices. I’d have to spend about $1500.00 to get what I wanted – that’s the low end.

What about a kit to convert my old bike? I like kits. Well, I found some kits on eBay and purchased one. It cost $219.00. I have since seen the kits under $200.00, so look around if you plan to convert your bike.

This is the kit that I received. It contains everything needed except the battery

The first step was to get the tube and tire on the rim. This is not so easy if you do not have experience and a special tool to assist. I did get it on, put the air in, only to find out the next day it was flat. I likely pinched the tube during installation.

I decided to take it to a bike shop – new tube $12.00 and installation $8.00 = Worth doing it.

Next I put all the simple parts on: handle bar grips, throttle, and brake levers. Cables were dangling down the front of the bike. Make sure you know how to remove brake cables. Watch some videos first – then do the work – not the other way around.

Then I mounted the tire with hub motor to the front forks. You can purchase a rear hub motor kit, but that installation process is more involved. Again, watch videos before you purchase a kit so you know what is involved.

Following the instructions that came with the kit (they were okay, but not great), I began routing and wrapping the cables on the bike frame.

All the cables connect to the motor controller, which sits in a bike bag that hangs on the frame. The bag they provided is too small. I ordered a new one – cost: $11.00.

I connected everything I could, except the main power connectors to the battery. I still had not ordered one. More research, and where to place it on the bike also needed to be figured out.

I found a battery that I liked based on the kit providers recommendation for voltage and ampere hours – cost: $150.00. Batteries are not cheap but should last 6 years.

Now, how to mount it? I decided to use the water bottle bracket already on my bike. My solution was to mount the battery in 4″ diameter ABS pipe with hose clamps. I also added side blocks to prevent the battery from moving while on the road. Here is how it turned out.

I connected everything up and tested. Yes, we have power! I road tested the bike at about 20mph – that seemed pretty fast to me.

Here is the finished bike. I added a Flux Capacitor label to the battery tube and a “Bike to the Future” image in the bike bag pocket. – just for some fun!

It was not a simple project, so it may not be for you. There are people who will convert your bike or of course you can buy a new one.

I very much enjoyed this project and would do it again. Total cost: $410.00.

By the way, hills are a piece of cake now! The eBike is really a blast to ride!